Framing Punch List Checklist: What to Inspect Before Rough-In
A framing punch list with 55 inspection points — plates, studs, joists, headers, shear, and bracing — to inspect before rough-in. Printable checklist and FAQs.
Written by Luke Johns · August 23, 2026 · 13 min read
Framing is the skeleton everything else hangs on. A wall that is out of plumb by a quarter inch becomes a cabinet that will not sit flush, a tile wall that is not flat, and a door that rubs. A framing punch list run before rough-in — before the plumbing, electrical, and HVAC go in — is the cheapest moment to fix structural and alignment issues. This checklist covers 55 inspection points for wood framing, from sill plate through bracing and shear.
Inspect framing with a level, a square, a tape, and the plans. Check plumb, level, square, spacing, and alignment on every wall, floor, and ceiling. Log every defect with a photo and the wall location before the rough-in trades cover it up.
Sill Plate & Floor Framing
Sill plate pressure-treated and sealed to foundation per code
Sill plate anchored with correct bolt size and spacing
Sill plate level within 1/8" over 10 feet
Rim joist installed continuous and flush
Floor joists correct size, spacing, and span per plans
Joists crowned consistently (crown up)
Joist hangers installed with correct nails in every hole
Beam pockets and posts correct size and bearing
Subfloor glued and screwed — no squeaks
Subfloor seams tight — no gaps over 1/16"
Subfloor flat within 1/8" in 10 feet
Wall Framing
Plates straight and free of crown or bow
Studs correct size and spacing (16" or 24" o.c. per plan)
Studs crowned consistently in the same direction
Walls plumb within 1/4" in 8 feet
Walls straight within 1/4" in 10 feet
Wall height correct per plan
Double top plate installed with lap at corners and intersections
Studs not cut, notched, or bored beyond code limits
Partition bracing installed at all intersecting walls
Let-in or metal bracing installed at exterior corners
Openings — Doors, Windows, Headers
Rough opening dimensions match the window and door schedule
Headers correct size and material for the span and load
Headers installed with correct bearing (jack studs per plan)
King studs full height and tight to plates
Jack studs tight under header — no gap
Sill plate (window) level and sealed
Rough sill pan slope and flashing prep per window spec
Door rough openings plumb and square
Buck framing at openings correct for finish
Ceiling & Roof Framing
Ceiling joists correct size, spacing, and span
Ceiling joists tied to rafters at exterior walls (collar ties / rafter ties)
Rafters correct size and spacing per plan
Rafters birdsmouth cut correctly and bearing on plate
Ridge board or ridge beam correct size and continuous
Roof pitch matches plan
Lookouts and outlookers installed at gable overhangs
Attic framing allows for required ventilation and access
Trusses (if used) set plumb, braced, and per truss design
Shear, Bracing & Structural
Shear wall locations match structural plan
Shear panel nailing pattern correct (edge and field)
Hold-downs installed at shear wall ends with correct bolts
Shear panels installed correct side and orientation
Blocking installed at shear wall panel edges
Nail schedule followed (size, spacing) per structural drawings
Engineered hardware (hangers, straps) installed per manufacturer
Fire blocking installed at all concealed spaces per code
Draft stopping installed in floor/ceiling assemblies
Pre-Rough-In Walk
All walls plumb, straight, and square verified with level
All rough openings match the schedule
No studs notched or bored beyond code limits
All blocking for cabinets, grab bars, and heavy fixtures installed
When should the framing punch list be run?
Run it after framing is complete and before any rough-in trade (plumbing, electrical, HVAC) starts. This is the cheapest moment to fix plumb, square, and alignment issues. A second quick walk after rough-in and before insulation catches any studs that were notched or bored beyond code limits.
What is the acceptable tolerance for plumb and level in framing?
A common tolerance is 1/4" out of plumb in 8 feet for walls and 1/8" out of level in 10 feet for plates and floors. Tighter tolerances apply where tile, cabinetry, or doors will land. Always confirm against the project spec and local code.
How much can a stud be notched or bored?
Code limits notching and boring in bearing studs. Typically a notch cannot exceed 25% of the stud depth in bearing walls (or 40% in non-bearing), and a bored hole cannot exceed 60% of the depth and must be at least 5/8" from the edge. Confirm the specific limits in your local code.
Why is blocking important at the framing stage?
Blocking provides solid backing for cabinets, grab bars, ceiling fans, handrails, and heavy fixtures. Without it, those items rely on drywall anchors that fail. Blocking is cheap during framing and very expensive after drywall, so verify it during the framing walk.
Who inspects shear walls and hold-downs?
Shear walls, hold-downs, and engineered hardware must match the structural drawings and are typically inspected by the local building inspector and the GC. The framing crew is responsible for installation. Document shear wall nailing and hold-downs with photos for the inspection record.
Luke Johns spent a decade on job sites running punch lists, coordinating subcontractors, and closing out projects before building QuickPunch. Punch lists, subcontractor coordination, quality control, and project closeout across residential remodeling, production home building, and commercial multifamily construction. More about Luke Johns →
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